Official bladeRF forum

Which kind of enclosure would you recommend for the bladeRf boards?
The simplest solution would be using plexiglass - but is there a problem because there is no shielding?

I bought this: http://www.skpang.co.uk/catalog/acrylic ... -1240.html

Will be here next week.

edgar wrote:Which kind of enclosure would you recommend for the bladeRf boards?
The simplest solution would be using plexiglass - but is there a problem because there is no shielding?

Here is an acrylic case I designed, you just need to give the SVG file to a laser cutter and they should be able to make one.
http://nuand.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2602

I've been wanting to model a metal case based on the tuxCase for the raspberry pi but I haven't have the time to do it.

edgar wrote:Which kind of enclosure would you recommend for the bladeRf boards?
The simplest solution would be using plexiglass - but is there a problem because there is no shielding?

I designed for my own use a 3D printed open enclosure and I shared the design on thingiverse. You can download it from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:151052

j.

I ordered this, should be here in a day or three: http://www.skpang.co.uk/catalog/acrylic ... -1240.html

I am going to have drawings made from which every professional manufacturer should be able to make a housing. Will post it if I get this done

Ralph.

I just got an aluminium housing from hammond manufacturing and bodge some holes in it. Will have to go to with 100mm wide versions and mount the bladeRF on a carrier board.. (scrap aluminum sheet or something)
http://www.hammondmfg.com/1455.htm I use the 1455N1601BK specifically. (~$35 bucks on mouser)

You will have to pick one that is bigger and adapt it because the bladeRF is not a standard card size. Also the "CLK" connect sticking out the side, make it a pain as well.
Needs a bit of metal work to get it in a nice fit so, may not be a direct option for many here. But metal is a preferred case material for ESD and EMI reasons. Problem with the plastic cases it they build up static electricity that can possibly damage the board.

I simply removed the clock connector, as I do not need it. And should it get necessary later, then I just will install a connector that goes to the top and drill a hole into the top of the housing.

Today I received a first drawing for a case, looks quite nice, milled out of a block of metal, even with a cooling stud under the RF chip.

Ralph.

Hello all,

For my criterias, a enclosure must be :
-Strong mechanicaly ( aluminium)
-RF shielded with electric joint for the lid
-Permits heat dissipation via thermos-pads and aluminium pillars
-Must have the connectors fixed to it ( i have already have an accident with a bad foot / cable combinaison
To do that : extraction of all SMA connectors of the Blade RF and replace them by chassis female and UT-141 coax line to the board and for power: a dedicated 5V dc linear supply.
My idea is to use a basic hammond box like kb3gtn but i have no idea of the exact dimmensions of the Blade RF board and no idea where are the holes to fix it.

Is anybody have some info to share about the exacts dimmensions of the board ?

Bests Regards,
Jef.

I designed a box to be printed with a 3D printer.

The box: http://www.plumabot.es/documentos/cajaBladeRF-caja.stl

And the cover: http://www.plumabot.es/documentos/cajaBladeRF-caja.stl

I have the acrylic case that Simon has. It's nice, but I want a metal case as well.

I was considering keeping it in the acrylic case, mounting that case on some type of carrying board, and then using a slightly larger Hammond case with jumpers from the TX, RX, power, and USB connectors to affixed chassis-type connectors on the end plates of the Hammond box.

All the materials are inexpensive enough, so I might give this a whirl unless anyone with more knowledge (that's just about everyone here ) than I can see a valid reason not to.

Thanks,

Scott